August and September have truly been a traveling period for me. After visiting Hanoi my good friend Wynand arrived from Amsterdam to spend two weeks in Singapore and elsewhere in South East Asia. I only gave him one day to recuperate from jetlag before we took off to Thailand on Friday 24 August.
Our destination was Ao Nang (near Krabi), where we spent just one night having arrived quite late in the evening. On Saturday morning we took a boat to Ko Phi Phi, an island that was our main destination for a relaxing 3-day holiday. The place is quite close to Phuket, but not nearly as crowded by Northern Europeans on package tours, especially now during the rainy season. Speking of rain, there really wasn't much of it, just a couple of 10-minute showers really. We spent our days relaxing on the beach and the swimming pool, walking around the island and enjoying good and cheap food. We also spent one day doing a tour with a long-tail boat, going to various islands and beaches, and snorkling in the magnificent turquoise water with vast amounts of fish of all colours of the rainbow and beautiful corals. The only regret of the trip was the fact that I didn't buy a water proof camera before the snorkling :(
Some pictures of Ko Phi Phi:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=50569&l=c3887&id=838595334
We arrived back to Singapore around 10pm on Monday 27 August, had a few hours of sleep and flew off to Siem Reap in Cambodia at 6am the following morning. Siem Reap is a town just next to the magnificent temples of Angkor, where several capitals of the Khmer Empire (9th to 15th century) were situated. Angkor is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and not without a reason; the temples are truly impressive and a sign of the greatness of the ancient Khmers.
We spent two days exploring the temples, which are situated 6-40km from Siem Reap city. In total there are more 1000 temples in the Angkor area - even though we started early in the morning on both days, we managed to cover about 10 of them. We opted for a tuk-tuk (small motorcycle with a cabin attached to the rear) to move around the area, although some people prefer airconditioned 4WDs, big tourist buses or even bicycles. We also hired a guide who knew a fair bit about the history of the temples, and was also eager to answer our questions about life in contemporary Cambodia. Among the temples we covered were the famous Angkor Wat, the Bayon, Phimeanakas, the Royal Palace, Bapuon, Preah Palilay, Preah Khan, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, Neak Pean and East Mebon. They were all magnificent, although nothing more than the standard tour that most busy tourist see during their 2-3 day stay in Siem Reap. Some enthusiasts stay for a week in order to discover temples off the tourist track, but I'm pretty sure that in my case that would result in serious temple fatigue. Visiting the temples is not that cheap, as entrance fees, transportation and guides cost a minimum of US$40 per day per person, but at least part of the money benefits the local economy, and is used to preserve the temples.
Tourism in Siem Reap has really picked up only since about 2000, and one can see the town is just booming. On the one hand new huge 5-star hotels, restaurants and bars are sweeping away the charm of a quiet village, but on the other, this brings a lot of money to one of the poorest countries in the world. Eating in a nice restaurant and relaxing in a totally western-like bar after a long day walking at the temples is of course very pleasant, although it gives the average visitor an entirely inaccurate picture of life in "real" Cambodia. Thanks to tourism, Siem Reap is doing quite ok, but the same cannot be said about the rural areas surrounding it.
Pictures of Angkor and Siem Reap:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=50581&l=8a5d9&id=838595334
More info on Angkor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor
After two days of wonderful cultural experiences in Angkor, on Thursday 30 August we took the bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. Already the bus ride gave an idea of life in Cambodia outside of touristic Siem Reap. People in the roadside villages live simple life, and when the bus stopped for a half-hour break we were immediately greeted by begging children and their mothers selling pineapples and cold drinks. Arrival to Phnom Penh was somewhat of a culture shock, especially for Wynand (at least I had recently been to Hanoi and heard friends' stories about Phnom Penh). About 30 tuk-tuk drivers jumped on us, offering to take us to a hotel, and although none of them seemed threatning, it was just quite intense. On the way to a hotel we immediately realised how different the capital was from Siem Reap -even when we only went through the wealthy central area.
Our first day in Phnom Penh showed what the rainy season is all about: just 200m from the Royal Palace we were caught by an enormous rain and had to wait for half an hour for it calm down a bit. Finally a security guard took a huge sunshade to walk us until the entrance, so we could run until the first building. The Royal Palace is for the most part closed to visitors, as the King still lives there, but the complex is big enough to leave a fair amount to see for the visitors as well. The several pagodas were beautiful and well restored, which of course makes one wonder about the money spent on them in a poverty-stricken country. After the tour we found our way to the riverfront, where expats and tourists usually head out for drinks and dinner. On the way to the cosy western bars we started to get an idea of the misery of Cambodia's poor: small children and disfigured and crippled people asking for a dollar that for us was nothing but for them would buy enough food for the whole day.
Friday 31 August was our last day in Cambodia, and it was full of powerful experiences. We started the day by visiting the Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek, some 15km from the centre. This is where the Khmer Rouge regime murdered thousands of civilians after a few months of imprisonment and torture. The site is full of mass graves that have since then been opened, with just the holes on the ground, peaces of clothes on the ground and a collection of skulls in a Buddhist monument to remind the visitors of what took place there 30 years ago. After some souvenir shopping at the Russian market we continued to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (Prison S-21), where more 14,000 people were tortured before being killed at the Killing Fields. Only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum was a brutal exhibition of how the inhumane conditions in which the prisoners were imprisoned and tortured before being killed. Like the Nazis, the Khmer Rouges kept precise files on their activities, leaving behind vast collections of photographs of the victims which are on display at the museum. During their regime, Pol Pot & co killed an estimated 1.5 million people (estimates range from 850,000 to 3 million) through execution, starvation and forced labor. Before the regime the country had 7.5 million inhabitants.
After a 2-hour flight from Phnom Penh back to Singapore one couldn't help feeling guilt and even disgust of being in such a fortunate position as to have been born in a wealthy western country and living a somewhat decadent expat life in the ultra commercial Singapore. Phnom Penh was a good reminder of the world we live in, and tired as we were, both Wynand and I found it difficult to fall asleep once back at my place.
Pictures of Phnom Penh:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=50815&l=97141&id=838595334
After the intense trips to Thailand and Cambodia we spent the weekend relaxing in Singapore. We didn't do much, just visited Chinatown and Little India, conquered the highest point in Singapore (Bukit Timah hill, 164 meters above sea level), and had a look at the night life. On Sunday I also got the chance to experience something new, as we visited a public housing estate, where about 85% of Singaporeans live, but most Western expats never get to see. A friend of a friend had recently moved into one of them, and we got the chance to see his place. As expected, it was nothing like the image most foreigners have of Singapore (and the image its government is eager to promote), but very modest in every respect. On the other hand, it was very clean and safe, nothing like the ghettos in European suburbs. Eating at the local hawker where no English was spoken and having durian fruit for desert were also very distinctly Singaporean experiences.
More than three days in Singapore would however probably have bored Wynand to death, so we decided to make another short trip. We took a bus to Kuala Lumpur (commonly referred to as KL in the region), Malaysia's capital. The bus services between Singapore and KL are very competitive, as the trip only takes 5 hours, is very cheap and offers lots of comfort. Extra large massaging leather seats that can be made completely flat, personal video system and snacks & coffee made the trip a very pleasant one. As a city KL was nothing particular, although I do very much enjoy the multiethnicity also present in Singapore. Malays, Chinese and Indians mix in the city that just celebrated its 50th of independence from Britain, and the Malaysian flag was covering every inch of wall in the city. We spent the two half-days walking around the city, checking out the must-see attractions such as Independence Square, the Petronas Towers, the market and the Museum of Islamic Arts. In addition to that we just walked around, ate well and enjoyed the experience of seeing yet another city.
Pictures of KL:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=50824&l=0a834&id=838595334
Wynand certainly got a comprehensive view of life in South East Asia, having seen the beaches of Thailand, the ancient temples of Angkor, the poverty of Phnom Penh, the modernity of Singapore and the buzz of KL. I also thoroughly enjoyed traveling around the region in good company, and I feel I've finally started to understand Asia. In a way it's a pity that it's only happening now that I'm close to leaving the continent, but the fact is that by staying in Singapore one simply doesn't develop that kind of understanding.